All you need to know about vin jaune and natural wine

The first writings mentioning the name "Vin Jaune" date back to 1822. But in the 17th century, there is already talk of Arbois and Château Chalon of a wine that could already be Vin Jaune.

Where do you get Yellow Wine?

There is no doubt that Vin Jaune is only produced that in the department of Jura (39). And, only four appellations are authorized to produce Vin Jaune: Arbois Vin Jaune, Côtes-du-Jura Vin Jaune, Vin Jaune de l'Étoile and Château-Chalon. The latter only produces Vin Jaune. It should be noted that the producers at Château-Chalon can give up production when the harvest does not seem satisfactory to them. This was the case in 1974, 1980, 1984 and 2001.

How is Yellow Wine made?

First of all, remember that only the Grape variety Savagnin (or naturé) is authorized for the elaboration of Vin Jaune. The grapes are vinified into white wine in the most classic way. Then slow and complete fermentation: dry wine having undergone its malolactic fermentation. The wine is then decanted into Burgundy type barrels, drained (i.e. not full), in order to offer a large surface area to the air.

Any wine in these conditions would be quickly oxidized and virtually unfit for consumption. It is without counting here on the appearance of a veil of yeasts with the sweet name of "sacchamoryces oviformis".

But this sail doesn't always develop or doesn't hold on the length, allowing the appellation. Indeed, the Vin Jaune is a white wine that stays under its veil for a minimum of 6 years and 3 months. Nobody touches it, no topping, no racking, nothing before bottling! Another particularity, the bottle of Vin Jaune. Its name ? le Clavelin, and its Capacity (special) ? 62 cl. The latter reminds us that after 6 years and 3 months, only 2/3 of the wine remains. (kind of - big - part of the angels).

Characteristics of Yellow Wine

The wine is protected from the air by its veil. This allows a very slow oxidation which will install the formation of particular aromas, in particular ethanal and soluton. It is these two that are responsible for the famous "taste of yellow".

The exercise is hanging on by a thread. No possibility to add SO2 (sulphur), otherwise the veil will be destroyed. The only protection of the wine comes from its alcohol content. Period.

The tasting of the Yellow Wine.

The tasting of a Yellow Wine begins by observing the colour, or rather the colours of its robe. In fact, clarification for six years is not comparable to any filtration.

On the nose, the aromatic palette is important and intense. The first nose often expresses nutty notes (fresh or green). Then the range will turn around and become more complex with hints of dry walnut, almond, hazelnut, dried fruit of all kinds. Empyreumatic (cooking) notes arrive with smoke, toasted bread, coffee or cocoa roasting. For the most complex vintages, the whole is completed by spices: pepper, cinnamon, clove or even candied fruits. It's absolutely magical! 

As you will have understood, tasting a yellow wine is another world, always complicated. Sometimes it's impossible for some tasters because the power, the fullness, the fatness and the strength make these wines a tasting apart. On the other hand, one can rarely remain insensitive to the persistence in the mouth that makes vin jaune the longest wines in the world.

The sommelier's opinion

As a sommelier, I like to taste it with a few nuts and a palette of counties of different ages. It is also essential, on pain of dying an idiot, to taste once in your life the coq au Vin Jaune, cream and morels !

And if not, where else to enjoy it? We can't resist telling you a little bit about what has been happening every year for almost a quarter of a century. The great amateurs of Vin Jaune or the simply curious meet for two days at the famous "Percée du Vin Jaune". This is a unique moment to taste the numerous Vin Jaune productions.

La Percée du Vin Jaune 2020 was the 23rd edition. For the second time in its history, it was held in Ruffey-sur-Seille. In 2021, 24th edition. It will take place in Cramans (39) on 6 and 7 February. The notoriety of this meeting contributes a lot to make Vin Jaune more and more popular. In spite of a very high price for this rare product is sold between 50 and 100 €... anyway. 

Did you know that?

- The name Vin Jaune does not come from its colour but from its taste, the "Goût de Jaune".

- As Yellow Wine has learned to live with oxygen for more than 6 years, it does not lose wrinkles easily. It can be kept for a very long time. Some bottles pass the century without any problem and offer to the luckiest ones an incredible complexity.