The Story - Waiting for summer - Eric Dubois, Château La Franchaie - organic wines
Wednesday 1 st July, 9 o'clock in the morning in Nantes, the weather is grey, bordering on the cold. Where are you, dear summer? We go up to 5 in the small rented Fiat and take the direction of Anjou! In the car, the atmosphere is good, despite the grayness. In the back, we are tight but what wouldn't we do to go and see Éric Dubois (winemaker of organic wines) at La Possonnière (49)!
After more than ten years as leader of the Clos Cristal, in the Saumur region of France, Éric joined Loïc Mahé in 2017 at Château la Franchaie right next to the famous Savennières. There they rent out the vines and the winery, always in the spirit of making healthy and precise wines. Here the vines have been organic since 2011 (conversion work done by Loïc, who has since left la Franchaie to settle elsewhere).
Beauty, calm and serenity
After an hour and a half of driving we finally arrive. We get out of the Italian vehicle as best we can. We are greeted by Eric and his dog, a one-year-old hound who already weighs as much as some of us...
Right away, we're comfortable. Eric is that kind of person, you know... the kind of person who is good for the soul. Bright-eyed, poised and calm, he checks up on us.
We talk about simple things and it feels good. Around us are the vineyards. Three hectares in a single block on the site called " La Franchaie ", with the winery as a central point. The whole area is slightly hilly and surrounded by forests. It's protected, it's beautiful.
As for château (from la Franchaie), it is still inhabited and is a little higher up the valley. After a few exchanges, Eric Dubois suggested that we go and see his second 2.5 hectare "Bachelot" plot located 2 minutes from the winery.
We just have to cross the county road, take a couple of side roads and we're there.
Loire in sight
There, the landscape is different. You can see the Loire, and then we are on a slight hillside with the railway track below. Let's talk about this one! "The soil has been slightly modified on this plot," says Eric. Indeed, there is stone everywhere, and it is not schist! Indeed these almost volcanic stones come from the railway line. One of the former owners recycled the worn stones that were used for ballast a long time ago. He covered his plot of land, which has changed the soil of his plot. Amazing!
"This keeps the heat of the day during the night, which allows us to reach optimal maturities, especially for the Cabernets (franc and sauvignon)," says Eric.
He then confides to us that it reminds him a little of the concept of the walls of the Clos Crystal...
After this river side we return to the winery to quench our thirst.
Like a Posson in the Loire - organic wines
We then get outside around a barrel and Éric Dubois starts to "blow the skittles off" of plain wine. We start with the two vintages of white in chenin. Both are made from the same juice but with different maturations. The first one is a porcelain ageing (low porosity), the " Séraphine " cuvée, we are on citrus fruits, flowers with a nice length in the mouth (big energy!). Then comes the "Lapin Blanc 2018" cuvée, a chenin mastered on a more classic barrel ageing. Suave and tonic, chenin what!
Between two glasses of natural wine, we discuss the Dubois' strong taste for painting with his wife Alex who has just joined us. The paintings exhibited in the cellar and the labels on the bottles, it's her! Really good atmosphere here...
Then it's the reds' turn, Eric's hobbyhorse. Between the vintages " Red Posson "and" High Cab "both in 2018, our hearts are swinging. What a mastery of Cabernets!! It's pure pleasure ! We continue to discuss everything and nothing with a glass in hand. There's no need to get worked up here, everything is fluid and natural.
Just to be clear, everything is good at Château la Franchaie ! Great control on the reds, and beautiful expression of the chenin on the whites ! We love it !
We would stay, but unfortunately we all have our imperatives.
We leave Eric who proposes us for the next time to come and take part in a harvest day. Harvest which promises to be early this year. Noted!
"Hey, buddy! And thank you for this nice visit. »
